In today’s review, Randall Wilson takes a look at the Bulova MIL-SHIPS watch. This is a precision timepiece with its origins tied to the U.S. Navy’s UDT divers. The watch reviewed here is personally owned by the author.
There are times when a high-quality product is enhanced by a compelling history. In the watch world, this accounts for many memorable car racing, moonshot, and adventure timepieces. True, too, of military watches. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 diving wristwatch has a particularly interesting backstory.
The Maker
The Bulova Watch Company of New York City was founded in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova. Perhaps most famously known for the invention of the first electronic tuning-fork timekeeper, the Accutron, Bulova would be hailed as a technologically advanced company. Accutron, introduced in 1960, proved that an electric movement could replace a mechanical one and have exponentially better accuracy, so much so that Accutron clocks and watches were used in 46 NASA space missions during the 1960s.
But back in 1953, the post-war U.S. Navy was in search of a dive wristwatch to meet the emerging needs of its Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) and Underwater Demolition Teams (UDTs). Watches used by divers at the time were only water-resistant to 40 feet. The Navy called for a watch that could survive water ingress to 400 feet! A non-magnetic requirement was included so the movement would not corrode if there was damage to the watch case and additionally so as not to negatively affect underwater magnetic mines.
There were more desired attributes as well, and two years later, this led the Navy Bureau of Ships (BuShips) to publish “Contract Specification; Wrist watch, Submersible, MIL-SHIPS-W-2181,” for a non-magnetic, waterproof dive watch for EOD and the UDTs (later to become the Navy SEALs).
Entering the Ring
MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 specified testing for water tightness, luminosity, and bezel manipulation, as well as diver usability. The first Bulova prototypes were received by the Navy in 1957. Then, on February 5, 1958, three more Bulova prototypes were delivered to the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) at the Washington Navy Yard. NEDU conducted standardized tests, and on March 10, 1958, Evaluation Report 5-58 was released. This was the first documented assessment of the watches.
For water tightness, the 1958 testing report stated, “The case and crystal assembly shall be sealed and sufficiently rigid to withstand a hydrostatic pressure of 175 pounds per square inch (gage) with no leakage and no deformation which might interfere with the proper functioning of the movement. A moisture vapor sensitive test will be used to detect leakage.” A pressure vessel was employed for this testing.
Luminosity of the hands and indices was overseen by six divers under various underwater light conditions. NEDU divers manipulated the ratcheting rotating bezel with both bare hands and gloved ones. They also experimented with the strap and other ergonomics of the watch in general. Their findings led to revisions in the Bulova watch submissions, and a total of 16 prototype watches were ultimately sent to the Navy.
In December of 1959, the Navy’s Bureau of Ships Journal published an article proudly announcing the development of the submersible wristwatch by the BuShips and Bulova. It was a defining moment for this timepiece. It had been assisted through the procurement process by none other than Gen. Omar S. Bradley (Ret.), who was now the Head of Research and Development for Bulova. The skids had been neatly greased. But then, suddenly, Bulova scuttled the MIL-SHIPS.
There is conjecture that Bulova was in the development of the Accutron at the time and had foreseen a conflict between producing both the Accutron and MIL-SHIPS in significant quantities. Others think that the production numbers were much smaller than Bulova was led to believe, and Bulova felt it was not worth their efforts.
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Whatever the reason, the Bulova MIL-SHIPS was never commercially available. The sixteen prototypes were all that remained of the project. The Tornek-Rayville Watch Company would take over the contract, which only amounted to 1,000 pieces. The Bulova versions were forgotten…even by the company itself.
Fast Forward
Now, take our Time Machine to the year 2019. At the urging of prominent watch collector Adam Victor, and in collaboration with the Bulova staff, the MIL-SHIPS was salvaged from anonymity. An Archive Series model of the MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 was developed and brought to market in 2021. Of course, I bought one.
The updated Bulova MIL-SHIPS mixes the classic styling of the original with modern improvements. So, what remains of the BuShips spec sheet? First off, the case design mirrors the prototypes. At 41mm in diameter and 14.5mm in thickness, it feels like the vintage watch. Its weight is 2.75 ounces — solid on the wrist. It comes in the same matte stainless steel.
The black dial face is a match down to the font, indices, and moisture indicator. That is the small rectangular strip at six o’clock that changes color to let the wearer know if there has been water intrusion into the case. It is a pleasing historical detail.
MIL-SHIPS rotating bezel must be pushed down to ratchet. It moves in either direction as on the prototypes and will not readjust if bumped. Spring-loaded, it is easy to use but must be deliberately manipulated to change the setting. This would be essential for a combat diver. The bezel is marked at 15, 30, and 45 with only the time-marking top triangle as luminous.
A 16mm wide nylon strap accompanied both old and new versions of the MIL-SHIPS. A 41mm case with only a 16mm band seemed kind of spindly. Most watches of this size have 18- or 20mm lug widths. But since it was true to the original, and the NEDU divers did not have issue with it, neither would I. To keep its original blue band pristine, I bought a Barton silicone replacement for daily wear.
Another unique feature from 1957 is the double-domed crystal. It adds a serious visage to the MIL-SHIPS and is accurate in its shape if not composition. Let’s talk about the departures from the Navy spec sheet and why. Since we are here, the new crystal is sapphire for the obvious reasons of strength and durability. Sapphire crystals were not widely used until the 1970s.
The luminous materials used in post-war watch hands and indices of the 1950s were genuinely radioactive. Effective and unhealthy. An authentic Bulova MIL-SHIPS prototype recently went up for sale at an auction house and had the lume ominously labeled as having “a strong Geiger reading.” Not so with today’s safe luminous marking materials.
As to watch innards, the 1957-1958 prototypes would have the caliber 10 BPCHN mechanical, 17 jewel model. It was a manual-only affair with a clutch mechanism to prevent overwinding. Bulova’s retro Archive Series is powered by a 21 jewel Miyota 82S0 mechanical movement. It features automatic and hand winding. It also has a secondhand stop, or hacking, feature. The motor is reliable and can also be found in watches by Citizen, Hugo Boss, Nixon, Festina and other mid-range brands.
Conclusion
For a watch with such promise, the Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181’s service ended abruptly. Its recovery, though, was fortuitous for horophiles. The MIL-SHIPS pedigree is impressive, and with the Archive improvements, it is more so. While the suggested retail price is $950.00 for the standard watch, I am certain you can procure one for much less than that. We sure did.
I have enjoyed my example. It carries an assuring heft and has delivered on its bona fides as a competent water watch. The design and execution are certainly old school and without apology. I am thrilled to wear it.
My Dad served in the U.S. Navy during the Cold War, so I have a particular place in my soul for things related. Looking at the Navy Good Conduct Medal for his years in uniform, I thought the Bulova MIL-SHIPS could earn a similar distinction for “exemplary performance and faithful service.”
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